This question must really be answered separately for work and non-work situations.

Cleavage in the workplace

I think it’s wise to err on the conservative side in a professional setting. So I’m going with a strict rule of no cleavage in the work place. Depending on your line of work, your outfit does not need to be conservative. You can absolutely sport a dramatic and eye-catching style without showing loads of skin. But it’s often hard to cover up all hints of cleavage when you’re well endowed. A busty lass needs to wear a low-ish neckline and even with a camisole it’s not always possible to cover cleavage completely. But as long as there is a respectable camisole under a low top, you’ve tried and that’s acceptable. (If you’re a model, showing cleavage is actually part of your job, so I guess you’ve got to do what you’ve got to do).

Cleavage outside the workplace

This is a hard one and I still don’t have a definitive answer. Cleavage is fabulous, but how much is the right amount before it’s bad taste? Women with smaller busts and athletic, boyish physiques seem to get away with showing more skin in the chest area, whereas curvier woman with larger bust lines tend to look “va-va voom” and unintentionally alluring much faster. Some non-work settings are also more cleavage appropriate than others. I think that the rest of your style plays a role when it comes to sporting any amount of cleavage. If you’re polished, well-put together, effortlessly stylish and super confident, you’ll probably make a good amount of cleavage look classy.

What do you think? Am I a prude when it comes to sporting cleavage in professional settings? What are your rules for revealing cleavage outside the workplace? I hope to hear from people all over the world because I’m pretty sure our views will differ.

It’s time to update the guidelines on how to dress for your body type. But before I readdress each body type in detail I need to clarify a few starting assumptions and explain the body type identification process:

There are five YLF body types

The pretty pear, adorable apple, racy rectangle, hot hourglass and statuesque inverted triangle should be familiar to YLF readers. After years of thinking through body type dressing and working with many, many different womanly figures, I still believe that these rudimentary categories best define the female form. But putting yourself into a body type category is merely a starting point. Once you know your body type, you need to do the next layer of analysis.

You might have a secondary body type

If you tend towards more than one body type you need to consider the guidelines of both. For example, you could be an hourglass with a curvier thigh area, in which case you would tend towards a pear shape. Or, if you’re an hourglass with a strong shoulder line, you’d tend towards an inverted triangle. I’m an hourglass with fewer curves so I tend towards a rectangle.

Body type modifiers add more detail

People with the same body type will still have different bodies. There are many other details that we need to consider when thinking about how best to adorn our bodies. Enter what I call the body type modifiers, such as bust size, height, shoulder width, neck length, leg length, ankle shape, short waist, long waist, calf circumference, rise size and being extra curvy.

Body types can change over time

This can happen naturally as we get older, but sometimes weight loss or gain can alter your body type more rapidly. For example, you might tend towards an apple or pear shape instead of being a typical hourglass when you gain weight in the thigh or mid riff area. By the same token when you lose weight, these are the areas that straighten out and you’re back to being an hourglass.

Identify your body type

The best way to identify your body type is to stand in front of a mirror in jeans or leggings and a form fitting top and analyze your silhouette from the front. Check how your hip width compares to your shoulder width (bust measurement does not play a part at this stage). Check whether you have a defined waistline. It might not be as easy as you think, so if you get stuck, post a picture of yourself on the forum and we’ll help you out.

Maintaining perfect fit becomes a challenge if your weight fluctuates. A variance of 5 to 10 pounds can be a size difference, especially if you tend to gain or lose weight on the lower part of your body. So what is a girl to do? Here are two options to consider:

• Purchase items that are forgiving on the areas of your body that grow larger and smaller. For example, A-line dresses and skirts are ideal for pear shaped body types that gain weight.
• Double up in different sizes on the items that you wear frequently. For example, consider stocking up on ”sleek jeans” and “roomy jeans”.

It’s an expensive exercise to keep a stock of various sizes in your wardrobe, but unfortunately I see no way around it. How else would you maintain perfect fit when the size of your body is perpetually changing?

Today’s post is written by Nicole, a stylish East Coast lass, long time YLF supporter and fabulous forum member. Nicole reviews Bratique Helene, a new manufacturer of woven tops designed specifically for women with a D+ cup size.

As most of the regular YLF Forum members know, I am a busty gal. As most busty gals know, finding woven shirts that fit and are comfortable is a pretty tall order. Woven shirts tend to have very little give. Also, in order for a shirt to reach across the fullest part of my chest, it will be several sizes too big in the shoulders, sleeves and torso. My biggest hurdle with woven, button down collared shirts is that they are always riding up on me. I spend an enormous amount of time tugging the shirt back down into place. It’s uncomfortable and annoying, so I don’t own any woven collared shirts. Until now.

Enter Carissa Brown of Bratique Helene and Angie’s ability to bring people together.

I was honored when Angie asked me to review Bratique Helene’s product. After I picked a style from their line and provided my measurements, Carissa sent me 3 different shirts. Using photos and email, we compared the shirts and decided which one fit me best. I then had the sleeves shortened and got right to wearing the shirt. Here are my impressions…

The fabric is divine. I chose a plain white collared shirt and it has just enough stretch in it to make it comfortable.

The closure system is genius. Instead of buttons it has hook and eye closures. At first, I was afraid the closures would be troublesome, but they worked well. Fastening them was no more time consuming than buttoning a shirt, but the beauty is they don’t pull at the bust the way traditional buttons would.

The cuffs are generous, which I love!

The seaming makes the shirt work for busty women. The downside is that some seam lines show through the fabric.

The shirt works with layers. I tried on the shirt with a thicker gauge cardigan and a short jacket and both worked fine.

The shirt tail has a small built in peplum. I think the design idea was to keep the shirt tail tailored so it would look good untucked (because us busty gals don’t have a lot of success tucking shirts in). I feel the peplum on my particular shirt fans out a bit too far on the sides. However, my mother thought it looked fine and it’s probably a fairly easy alteration.

Speaking of my mother, she absolutely loved this shirt. A professional dress designer and seamstress for most of her life, she was very impressed with the quality of the fabric, the workmanship of the shirt, and mostly with the design itself.

For anyone who has a high bust to waist ratio, I highly recommend that you check out Carissa’s product line. Although the range is somewhat limited right now, she does have plans to add more pieces in the future. Her company is just starting out and I am very happy to see her succeed.

I tend to prefer fine gauge knitwear because it is universally flattering and has the following advantages when incorporated into an ensemble:

• It creates a streamlined visual effect
• It is easy to layer
• It is very versatile (can be dressed up or down)

Chunky knitwear can look nice and is potentially warmer, but it’s also a little harder to wear. In my view chunky knitwear has the following disadvantages:

• It creates a bulky appearance (you tend to look bigger than you are)
• It is hard to layer
• It offers a predominantly casual look

Do you stick to fine gauge knitwear to keep your look sleek and smart? Or do you prefer chunky knitwear? If so, please come to its defense!

Examples of chunky knitwear.

The idea of a sweater dress is appealing. Throw it on with hose and boots and you’re ready to roll. If only they weren’t so hard to fit. The sweater dress guidelines below are by no means flop-proof, but they might help get you on your way:

• Embrace an unstructured look: Many sweater dresses are supposed to look untailored and a little boxy. It’s fine if they float away from the hips and don’t come in at the waist. It’s a cute look if the rest of your outfit is pulled together (good fit on the shoulders, fab hose, nice boots and handbag). Clingy sweater dresses are extremely tricky and not my preferred choice for most body types. I say go with the volume and embrace a less structured look.
• Consider an Empire cut: The baby doll style is a good option if you’re not busty. It’s tailored on top and roomy on the bottom, which makes for a forgiving A-line silhouette.
• Consider a Fit and Flare: Styles that are belted at the waist for structure, but spacious at the bottom for comfort are another good way to go. You can also change out the belt for a more polished appearance.
• Choose heavier knits: This does not necessarily mean “chunky knit” because fine gauge knits can have substance. Knits with weight smooth over the contour of the body instead of grabbing onto curves in an unflattering way. Many sweater dresses are made with flimsy knits and this is usually the deal breaker for me.
• Get the length right: Sweater dresses can’t be hemmed or lengthened, which means that the length has to be perfect upon purchase. I like them best just above the knee. I’m personally finding most sweater dresses too short, but I know that petites are finding them too long. Not easy!
• Test the complete outfit: Make sure you try a potential sweater dress with hose and boots before you say no. Getting the ensemble right can make all the difference.

Add the desire for non-scratchy wool, a pretty colour and a flattering neckline to the above variables and the search gets even harder. It’s a miracle we’re wearing sweater dresses at all.

I’ve been lucky to find two that I love but it’s taken two seasons and lots of experimentation. One is an empire cut and the other is a sack-like shape. Several possibilities opened up to me once I got my head around the fact that I could still look and feel pulled together wearing an unstructured style.

Have you had luck finding a sweater dress, or have you given up? Any more tips on how to find this elusive item?

Four sweater dress styles that are generally more flattering: an empire cut, two fit and flares and a sack dress. The weights of the knits look pretty substantial too. Be sure to check out bluefly for sweater dress deals.

It is hard to make a general rule about the amount of skin you should show between the top of your boots and the hem of your skirt. There are just too many variables. The style of the boots, the silhouette of the skirt, your height, your body type and the hosiery you wear are all factors in the equation. I’ve seen everything work: from thigh-high minis with calf length boots, to mid-calf skirts and knee-high boots.

One combination that seems to work on almost everyone right now is a knee-length skirt or dress worn with knee-high boots. Experimentation will reveal whether you should show the knee cap, show just part of the knee cap or cover the knee completely. Hose keeps you warm and often finishes the look, but isn’t a necessity.

Personally, I like my skirt and boots combination best when my kneecap is covered and there’s a hint of skin before the top of the boot (either with or without hose). I also like to wear skirt and boot ensembles that show no skin at all. Occasionally I’ll wear a skirt or dress that shows my entire knee cap but that’s rare. In these shorter skirt instances, I’ve found that adding monochromatic textured hose gives my legs more shape.

Have you found your skirt-skin-boots sweet spot, or is it still a mystery?

Mini-skirts with calf length and knee-high boot combinations, each showing a different amount of space between the hem of the skirt and the top of the boots.

Longer skirt styles showcasing less or no leg space between the end of the skirt and the top of the boots. This is my personal skirt-skin-boots sweet spot.

Tailored single-breasted jackets and blazers that are left un-buttoned are usually more flattering. They create a natural vertical line that elongates the silhouette, and draws the eye up-and-down. Leaving a jacket un-buttoned is also more comfortable and shows off interesting layering detail.

Bustier gals and gals who are a little broader in the shoulder can battle with jacket-button closure. The jacket fits everywhere else, but can’t button up. Going up a size means that the buttons will fasten, but that the shoulder line, sleeve length and torso are sloppy. An experienced and superb seamstress can alter anything, but jackets are tricky and expensive to alter (especially if they have lining). In this instance, alteration is often not worth the price and effective results are not guaranteed.

So I’m giving you the go-ahead to purchase a jacket or blazer that doesn’t close across the bust area, if it fits perfectly in all other respects. Obviously, outerwear trenches, coats, parkas and gear need to button up for practical reasons. There is little sense in braving the elements for aesthetics. But I’m fine with leaving other types of jackets unbuttoned as a cost-effective, stress-free and comfy solution.

Stacy London, co-host of TLC’s “What Not To Wear” shared five tips for looking your best in the August edition of People: Style Watch magazine:

1. Know yourself: “Accept your body type for what it is”. Embrace your size and find what works for you.
2. Fit is key: Once you have found the cuts that flatter your  body type, have them altered for perfect fit.
3. Don’t fall back on black: Other colours, like navy, charcoal grey and chocolate brown are also slimming. Also, cut is more important than colour.
4. Ignore labels: Brand and size labels are secondary. The fit of the garment is the important thing.
5. Good posture is essential: “Stand with your shoulders back, boobs out and tummy in.”

These are superb tips. I see some overlap with my post on how to look slimmer in your clothes. I also believe that polish makes a huge difference to one’s appearance. A fabulous haircut goes an especially long way.

There’s one other key ingredient to looking your best: confidence, an accessory that  can’t be bought. In most cases, you only look as good as you feel. Looking good makes you feel fabulous; but feeling fabulous makes you look even better.

It was all over designer collections, but didn’t filter down to mainstream. And with good reason because the paper-bag-waist skirt is hard to wear. A super slim, non-curvy body type, plus height, a smallish chest and great gams are the prerequisites.

I don’t think a short person with the rest of the goods will pull off this look. The paper-bag waistband needs a long torso so that the impact of a defined waistline is achieved. If the paper-bag part rides up too high, it’s unflattering. It’s also essential to tuck in the top and look great in poufy, gathered skirts (another look that’s hard to pull off).

I like the look on a boyish silhouette because it adds curve, interest and shape. The dramatic nature of the style makes for great catwalk appeal, but it’s best left as fringe fashion. I just can’t see it taking off in the real world where most women are shorter and curvier.