Double-breasted jackets: open and closed

September 15th, 2009

It used to be a faux-pas to wear double breasted jackets without buttoning up. Left open, you would get a weird fabric flopping thing happening around the torso and bust area making you look shapeless and unpolished. Buttoning them up was the only way to achieve a form fitting shape that showed off your waistline. Single breasted jackets, on the other hand, retain their shape along the contour of the torso when you leave them un-buttoned.

But deconstructed and boxy clothing is back in fashion and wearing double breasted jackets open is the “it” look. The jackets are also tailored accordingly. The upside is that when unbuttoned they create the same flattering vertical line down the front of the body. The downside is that it still means surrendering the waistline and taking some structure away from the bust area. Double edged sword.

Buttoning up tailored, double breasted styles is always flattering, but leaving them open is a fun new twist on the style. What do you think?

Boiled Wool Regalia Sweater-JacketElie Tahari "Shana" Double-Breasted JacketDouble Breasted Herringbone Jacket


 

28 Replies

Posted on Tuesday, September 15th, 2009 at 7:10 am

Hmmm, I really do like the first jacket but I’ worried that the extra fabric with such military styled jackets might not work for a big busted gal. The other two jackets create clean lines even when left unbuttoned. I can deal with the boxiness, but I just have to be careful of floppy fabric around the bust area. Don’t you think?

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 7:34 am

You know Angie, this might be what I am looking for instead of the boyfriend blazer which is pushed so much by the retailers and magazines and everyone else that I have no interest in it anymore. I really like the first (it’s JCrew of course, how could I not?) and the third one. The middle one is too “corporate” for my current state of mind. Thanks for a great suggestion!!!

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 7:38 am
Misha

I have to admit, I’m something other than thrilled with the look. On small-busted women, who might be trying for the retro-80s androgynous look, it overshoots androgynous and lands, I feel, squarely in ‘masculine’ territory. On bustier women, it robs them of the waistline silhouette/illusion, and I fear would make them look big all over. Am I off base?

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 7:40 am

I have never thought of trying this look, but I might give it a try with some jackets I already own. That third jacket is yummy!

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 7:41 am

I have been wondering about this very thing– wearing double breasted open– since I have been seeing it everywhere. I like the look and I’m all about surrendering the waist line right now. ;)

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 7:48 am

I’ve been avoiding double breasted jackets which I thought can’t be worn open, so this post is interesting. Since I’m small busted it might work with the right piece. After reading this I won’t be so quick to pass on the double breasted styles without trying them on.

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 7:49 am

I like how it looks, especially when paired with a slimmer bottom like skinny or straight jeans or a slim pencil skirt.
But I’m worried that it won’t look ideal on a bigger busted girl. Angie?

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 7:50 am

These girls all look cute, but I would only wear the look on the far right. I think that’s the only outfit that would look good on me. Maybe it’s because you’ve modeled this look yourself Angie, isn’t this so?

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 7:57 am
Phoebe

I like to wear all my jackets open for more comfort. This is a trend I will follow, although my eyes are still not used to it. The third jacket is quite nice, but I don´t think that uniform jackets that are very close to the neck like jacket number one will do the trick. The upper part will always slap in your face and neck – so not comfortable.
I have a nude double breasted blazer and I will give it a try.

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 7:58 am

It’s a cute look but not for all shapes, I’m hourglass and busty and this boxy clothes trend is not flattering at all for me!

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 8:02 am

I am loving the fact that it is now acceptable to leave double-breasted jackets open. It means that I can get a little more wear out of my jackets before that are set aside until “post-baby”.

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 8:07 am
Rae

I agree with the ladies who don’t think it will work for a larger bust. I have a feeling that it will end up looking and feeling like a mumu on me — I really, really prefer to be tailored on top — never liked the swing or trapeze jackets, either.

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 8:07 am

I like the undone look created by wearing double-breasted jackets open … definitely needs to be offset with a close-fitting bottom, though.

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 8:16 am
Susan H.

Hm.. maybe double-breasted and cropped, like the jacket on the right? I don’t think the other jackets pictured would be flattering on most women, but maybe the boxy effect is mitigated some when a jacket is cropped.

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 8:20 am

I can’t help but think of David Letterman when I see an unbuttoned double-breasted jacket.

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 9:19 am

I think this is best if the jacket is a nice drapey fabric.

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 9:21 am

A lack of structure and surrendering the waistline are never a downside to me. Assuming it looked right over the bust, I would wear this look in a second.

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 10:34 am
PalmFronds

I would never have thought I would like this look but the jacket to the far right is really lovely.I think the softer and cutaway design makes it work.Wish it was less expensive though!
Otherwise I am not thrilled with the open double-breasted version. To be honest I am not thrilled with double breasted at all, outside of a really nice winter coat.

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 10:35 am

I’m not a fan. I love the look of double-breasted jackets when buttoned. When unbuttoned, I don’t think they’re as flattering as unbuttoned single-breasted jackets, so when I want to wear a jacket unbuttoned (which is often) I always go for the single breast.

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 11:06 am

Not sure, since this seems to flatten the bustline and emphasize the stomach.

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 11:42 am
ChristineB

I really like the look of the middle jacket, and the third is great too. I love the thought of being able to wear double breasted jackets unbuttoned. As a pear with broad shoulders I do worry about surrendering the waistline, though. I’d have to be careful that the jacket wasn’t too long & getting caught up on my hips & thighs. My bust is fairly small, so that’s not the issue for me like it seems to be with many of the lovely posters before me.

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 12:12 pm

I actually wore my double-breasted peacoat that way last night! It’s a fun look to me. :)

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 12:16 pm

I think the key sentence here is “The jackets are also tailored accordingly.” I love the look in the first and third picture because it still looks quite polished. Not so sure about the second outfit. And since I don’t have a problem with surrendering my waistline, I’ll definitely give this a go (first I’ll have to get a double-breasted jacket;-).

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 1:31 pm

I’ve always had it in my head that double-breasted jackets look awful on me and I should go for single-breasted only. I’m not sure if that’s an apple guiedline thing, or a me thing, but I know it does make me look very wide across the middle so I’ve avoided them like the plague!

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 6:07 pm

I have a few double brested jackets but they aren’t as bulky as some of the old school, powers uit versions. I wear open all the time. I am large busted and it actually camos the area which I like.
For large busts it is often very hard to find a tailored to the waist single button jacket in the first place without major tailoring.
This is a very fashion forward look that I love! Thanks for approving Angie :)

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 9:44 pm

Vani and Sarah, I guess I’m not able to generalize at this point. I have seen bustier lasses pull off this look with panache. The devil is the detail. You get my green light to try this look as long as the double breasted style has a V-neck (like styles #2 and #3).

Misha, your reasoning is sound in theory. Good rules of thumb. But bending body type rules works if you know what you’re doing. Dressing is an art, not a science :-)

Meredith, I have shown a similar look with a cropped boxy top worn over skinny jeans.

Posted on September 15th, 2009 at 10:05 pm

I’ve always been drawn to wearing them open because I like to show off the details of the blouse I’m wearing under.

-meream

Posted on September 16th, 2009 at 11:15 am

I’m a fan of vary few waistless looks, and this is not one of them. If I’m going to surrender my waist every now and then I have to love the look, and I don’t love this.

Posted on September 16th, 2009 at 2:20 pm

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