Develop an eye for quality

March 5th, 2008

I was annoyed with what I saw in Prada’s Spring collection at Barney’s last week: a black, unlined, poorly made, ultra lightweight, 100% nylon, dowdy looking double-breasted trench selling for $1895. It wasn’t the price that annoyed me because you can expect insane price tags on new collection items from fashion brands like Prada, Chanel, Gucci and Cavalli. It’s the inferior quality, bad fit and uninspiring design of the garment that got to me. The very least that one should expect from any designer piece is impeccable quality, luxurious fabric, superior fit and exclusive design innovation. Some designer houses do satisfy this criteria, and then there is the rest.

In the rag trade, more expensive does not necessarily mean better and vice versa. Even top designers like to cut corners to increase profit margins. Don’t assume that a Marc Jacobs original is beautifully made and will launder well because of its price and the status attached to the brand (his prêt-a porter collections look particularly shoddy). This is why you need to develop an eye for good quality. You’ll save yourself lots of money if you do. Don’t be put off walking into stores that you perceive as having poor quality items. Chances are high that you’ll find something unique and of acceptable quality if you know what to look for.

Join a discussion on distinguishing good quality from bad in the YLF forum.

Armani Collezioni 'Sand Dollar Print' Belted Kimono JacketBurberry London Gold Single Breasted Trench CoatDonna Karan Collection 'Floating Dots' Skirt

I’ve seen these particular designer pieces up close and they were superbly made (with a price to match!)


 

7 Replies

Posted on Wednesday, March 5th, 2008 at 8:00 am

I agree that it is alarming how some expensive ready to wear has gone cheap. Celebrities get a lot of their clothes for free, so what do they care? A costly label doesn’t mean much to them, but we tend to be influenced by what we see in the magazines – a brand we just have to own.

I always look at Target, Walmart, and even Costco – just in case. I also always browse the nicer stores and can easily spot something that looks like it is “worth the money.” Labels just don’t do it for me anymore, because I know what I have seen for $35 and if the high ticket item doesn’t look 10x better, then it is isn’t worth it. Prada is not a charity, they have to work for my hard earned money.

A while ago, one of my fashion designer friends from college and I were talking on the phone comparing notes about expensive designer fashion and discovered that we had both bought the same blazer at Target. It was an Isaac Mizrahi with a beautiful lining that we both touched and realized was very well made. I paid a whopping $35 and then spent $20 having it altered to fit. So, for $55 got an awesome black blazer that looks and feels like a $350 blazer (or, given Angie’s experience at Barney’s, maybe an $1800 blazer).

I have noticed that cashmere has gone this route as well. Some of the expensive sweaters pill terribly. Many of my clients have found this rather annoying and, frankly, alarming.

Glad you brought it up, Angie. Sorry about the venting. . .

Posted on March 5th, 2008 at 9:06 am
Becky

Angie,

Would you consider doing a post on “quality markers” for those of us still learning?

Posted on March 5th, 2008 at 11:31 am

Feel free to vent Meredeth! J Crew’s cashmere has unfortunately been a sore point all season and it’s such a shame. They have just ruined their impeccable reputation.

Before anything else, I boil a good quality garment down to great fabric because you can’t make a purse out of a sow’s ear. My absolute worst is T-shirt fabric. Polyester rocks compared to most T-shirting, and there is an incredible amount of poor T-shirting around. Even the best T-shirting quality has a relatively short life span. Cotton is not a stable fiber especially when it’s knitted (which T-shirt fabric is), despite its soft and comfortable appeal.

At the end of the day, clothing is not made the way it use to be because it’s not made to last. There wouldn’t be a thriving fashion industry if it did.

I’ll try and conger up a “quality posting” Becky.

Posted on March 5th, 2008 at 7:22 pm

I agree with that. I buy a lot from Wal-mart, target, and mass merchandise stores..

but that jacket on the left is fab… *drool*

Posted on March 6th, 2008 at 8:12 am

Wonderful post as ever! (And of course, I’m pointing folks to it at my blog!).

I would also like to second Becky’s request — I think some guidelines on judging what is quality when it comes to shopping for clothes would be really helpful – and not just for beginners! I’m an old dog that could surely benefit from learning some new tricks! ;-)

Posted on March 6th, 2008 at 10:14 pm
joelle

This post brought to mind the time I first learned this lesson about 5-6 years ago. I was browsing around a Versace store and noticed a black and white check skirt that I thought was cute. When I went near it to take a closer look, I saw a machine-made hem across the bottom of the skirt in white thread. I might tolerate that on a cheap item because I can always pick the stitches out and redo the hem myself by hand so that it’s invisible, but a skirt costing several hundred dollars ought to be ready to wear right out of the store.

Posted on March 7th, 2008 at 11:19 am
Renee

My mother has worked as a seamstress for many years. She pounded into my head about what to look for with clothes. You’ll see me checking every seam and making sure the patterns in the fabric match up nicely. I’d drive my friends absolutely CRAZY whenever I go shopping with them. They’ll pull up an outfit and I’ll go over it with a fine tooth comb and tell them what is wrong with the outfit and suggest that they put it back and find something that is made well.

The designers that cut corners like that need a good smack in the head. They ought to know better!

Posted on May 24th, 2008 at 12:44 am

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